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Textiles and Clothing
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    dscott
     
    December 2011
    HI Everyone,
    I just found out about this project and have been poking around the forums. One topic I don't see represented is clothing. How do fabrics and clothes fit into the OSE project? I also have an interest in shoes and shoemaking which I think has been overlooked. It's great to have things like 3d printers, but a sewing machine is also crucial, not to mention a loom to make the fabric.
    Hope to hear from you.
    Daniel
     
  • 18 Comments sorted by
  • There is a logical sequence of machines when you are building from scratch.  You cannot do much of anything if you don't have buildings to live in and space for a workshop.  So the first generation of GVCS machines are the tractor for general dirt moving, CEB press for making building blocks, power cube as a general power source, etc.  The next group being worked on include the sawmill, and cement mixer.  So all of that allows you to put up some buildings.

    Once you have workshop space, you start filling it with part making machines: Lathe, milling machine, furnace for making metal castings, torch table, etc (there are 10-15 machines in this group).  I see an industrial grade sewing machine as a possible output of those part making machines.  A light grade sewing machine, like a Singer portable, is available at low cost, so there is not much savings from trying to build your own.  One capable of doing furniture upholstery or leather, with a wider throat (distance from needle to support post) and a heavy duty motor is not as cheap.  So it might make sense trying to make your own, or find a broken one and make parts to fix it.

    A loom implies a cotton or flax field and spinning machines to make the thread with which you weave.  Does community scale production make sense for this vs just buying fabric wholesale by having one person do all the fabric buying?  My own opinion is some things, like computer chips, are just way to difficult to make, and low enough cost to buy, it just does not make sense to try making your own.  Instead, just make some surplus lumber with your sawmill, sell it, and then go buy the computer parts.  I don't know where making textiles would fall in the practicality scale, but light and heavy duty sewing machines I would consider part of the toolset for any sustainable community.  They are just not the *first* tools needed.

    There are a couple of pages started in the wiki about sewing and textiles.  Feel free to add your thoughts there, especially if you have any numbers on what the needs are vs cost and time savings.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    surfcam
     
    December 2011
    I think it is something to look at in the future. My wife has about 150,000 patterns approximately. Some of the older ones have no copyright on them and can be copied. She sells a lot of patterns to sewers hobbiest to professional. Because clothing is made in third world low labor cost countries the saving by making your own is pretty thin in my opinion. If oil goes way up this could change with expensive transportation costs. Local everything will start to have an advantage. From manufacturing to energy production.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    dorkmodorkmo
     
    December 2011
    marcin met up with some guys called last wear a while ago. theyre doing open source patterns.

    we all wear clothes everyday so the need is obviously there.

    personally i think people passionate about particular projects should definately follow that road

    as one person digs into a field their new ideas interest others

    at the moment most drive has been in foundational tech bc of the freedom it can bring to people but that doesnt mean anyother project is less exciting to someone

    i bought a sewing machine a while back and started to get some experience, i think it would be awesome to build a machine then use it to make a shirt.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    mjnmjn
     
    December 2011
    There is also the Open Source Loom project (osloom.org).  Progress on this project has been slow and doesn't seem all that accessible to me.  Still, they are trying to build a computer-controlled, open source, jaquard style loom.

    - Mark

     
  • The GVCS makes more sense as a system of tools that make other tools. Once you've got tools-that-make-tools you can make all the tools that DON'T make other tools. A sewing machine doesn't make other tools the way a drill press does. Kind of like how a washing machine is great, but it doesn't make other tools.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    mjnmjn
     
    December 2011
    >  The GVCS makes more sense as a system of tools that make other tools.

    While that's true to an extent, the stated purposes of the GVCS is to create a Village Construction Set.  Part of that set are tools that satisfy the basic needs of a small community such as food production, shelter and CLOTHING.
    As such, a loom, sewing machine, and even a washing machine is in line with the larger purpose of the GVCS.  Tools are a means to an end.  Let's try to keep that in mind.

    - Mark Norton


     
  • Well, sure, it makes perfect sense to EVENTUALLY have a plan for an open source sewing machine. However, every tool that makes modern life more convenient requires the tools-that-make-tools exist first and with sufficient spare capacity to devote to convenience activities. I'm not saying it's a bad idea just that it's premature.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down December 2011
    Is it so premature that we shouldn't let people who are interested in sewing machines attempt to propose a design?
     
  • @DavidIAm - not at all, people are free to propose designs. But when I search for "industrial singer sewing machine" on ebay, all of them are under $1000.  A do-it-yourself machine will still take some materials and labor to build, so the question becomes "is the savings worth the effort"?  On a farm tractor the potential savings is much more because existing tractors are much more expensive.  Same for houses, they are pretty expensive, so the potential savings is big.  I have owned about a half dozen sewing machines over the years, and the most I have paid was $400, and that was a commercial shoe repair one.  The heavy duty portable I have now, which I sewed canvas tents with, was half that.  There are so many sewing machines out there already, and used ones are so cheap, I just question whether it is worth the bother to make another one.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    dscott
     
    December 2011
    Thanks for the great responses so far.  I agree that it's probably not worth it to reinvent the sewing machine, or the loom for that matter, but I do think those machines should be in the Construction Set. Textiles and clothing are an integral part of any culture where weather happens, and one of the descriptors of OSE is to design "tools that can create entire economies". It is a mistake to assume that the consumer culture will always create a glut of cheap, used clothing produced overseas and sold at prices that undermine local economies. Clothing and fabric goods are a basic need. They should be produced and used much like food and housing: from local sources, for local needs. 
    Hope to hear more of your thoughts.
    -Daniel Scott  
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down December 2011
    @danielravennest I think the answer to 'is the sole monetary savings worth the person time' is a definite NO.  But I don't think we should let that stop us.  We're not doing it for monetary gain (at least I'm not).  I'm not even interested in the monetary perspective, which only seems to occlude idealism and awesomeness in the interests of capitalistic efficacy.  The ethical perspective I'm trying to take indicates to me that the designs and prototyping of the designs should be available regardless of the monetary vs. person time equation.  In a nutshell, there are more reasons to create something than money alone.

    You could, if you wished, consider it art that does something useful.  Art in the aspect of being valuable enough to be funded (with people time and materials if not money), despite its possible lack of capitalistic profit or utilitarianism - useful in that a sewing machine should be able to actually sew.

    After all, the only time people time and materials matter is when there is a shortage of them - and one thing we certainly don't seem to have a shortage of right now is volunteer brain/people time.
     
  • I don't think there's anything wrong with filling the wiki up with ideas. I've been adding ideas to a couple pages on automated construction with CEBs. It's not a great idea, but it is interesting and has modest potential. So I'm not going to tell anyone to NOT develop an idea they're interested in. I just think it's worth clarifying why many rather obviously useful machines AREN'T in the GVCS.

    OSE is already having trouble meeting their timeline with just those 50 machines. They're not going to worry about machines that are already, for all practical purposes, open source. Sewing machine mechanisms are all well-documented and out of patent. Any machine shop could bang out a functional sewing machine. It's not a problem to be solved in the same way an open source induction furnace would be.

    I suggest people contribute their time to working on the more basic machines like the ironworker, but that is in no way binding and is not intended to be interpreted as attempting to be binding. It's just a suggestion based on my perception of the largest obstacles.

    If you do want to work on clothing machines I'd actually suggest focusing on leatherworking before any kind of fiber. Not only would leather be easier and more durable it would also be more useful in a system focused on machines. There are a ton of situations in which leather can substitute for rubber, which is kind of a big deal given that there doesn't seem to be a rubber-producing machine anywhere in the GVCS. So, arguably a leatherworking shop would fit right into the existing structure without any other justification.
     
  • @DavidIAM - In the long run, I agree that having a robotic/automated fabricator that can spit out the parts and assemble a sewing machine, loom, and other fabric-related items would be good.  Having the CAD files open source to feed it is ideal.  But having relatively cheap machines already widely available to me means that it is not a pressing need to solve right this minute.  I'm personally more interested in getting a sawmill and solar furnace for making cement done first, because Compressed Earth blocks only take care of 15-20% of what you need for a complete building.  With a sawmill, obviously you can make all kinds of lumber, and with cement, you can do concrete for foundations, blocks, and concrete roof tiles.  Combined with CEB and straw insulation, you are now looking at more like 50-60% of a building.  You are still missing fasteners, wiring, windows, etc, but you need workshop and living space to bootstrap the rest of what you want to make.

    If someone else wants to concentrate on fabric technology, that's great.  I have done my share of sewing and leather work in the past myself, and know it's important. But I feel the more pressing need is for making buildings, and machines to make machines, so that is where I will put my efforts for now.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    mjnmjn
     
    December 2011
    >  there doesn't seem to be a rubber-producing machine anywhere in the GVCS.

    Nope, not in the GVCS.  However, see http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/Rubber_from_Dandelions

    - Mark

     
  • Still seems like there should be a defined requirement for one. I don't see them getting very far without hoses and o-rings and gaskets and whatnot. Probably worth replacing "magical universal does-everything power supply" with "rubber machine" if keeping the count at 50 is important.
     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    mjnmjn
     
    December 2011
    LOL I don't think you are going to get Marcin to change the GVCS-50 list at this point, even with replacements.  Don't worry about what's in the 50 and what's not.  If we need a rubber machine, lets figure out how to make one.  What do you think about the idea of latex from dandelines and milkweed?

    - Mark

     
  • Vote Up0Vote Down
    dscott
     
    December 2011
    That wiki link about dandelions and latex is amazing, Mark.  Thanks for posting that. 
    Also, I think Matt_Maier is right about leatherworking being important. That technology is really basic and doesn't need any specialized machinery. I do think the clothing issue will have to be addressed eventually, but I'm starting to understand that the GVCS is in it's infancy and there's no need to add complication at this point.

    On making latex...  I read the wiki article and here's what I could find in a short time.
    I have to wonder if this is possible to do without a high-tech lab, but assuming it is, here's the way it's already being done.
    Seems like this thread is now off-topic of clothing/textiles. Maybe we should start a new one.  


     
  • I think that we'll definitely have to incorporate biology into the GVCS. There's no particular reason a batch of some special plankton that takes in biowaste and pumps out diesel or latex or whatever wouldn't count as a "machine." In the same way, it makes perfect sense to grow some crops that exist only to feed non-mineral raw materials into the system. Not everything can be scooped up off the ground. Some of it has to be grown, particularly the long-chain molecules. 

    I don't know anything about it, tho. Chemistry and biology aren't my thing.
     

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